A Motorcycle Thread About Absolutely Nothing!

So I've been riding my newly-upgraded bike for a couple weeks now. All I can say is "wwwwwooooooooowwwwwwww!!!!!!!!!!" definitely well-well-well money-spent! Now I'm pretty much set for a very long time. much better than my old bike which was literally falling apart.

My Ohlins Shock is truly amazing. It has 2 adjustable features - compression dampening (left-bottom black knob) and spring preload (right black knob).

feature-ohlins-shock-for-suzuki-v-strom-dl-650.jpg


right now, the setting for Compression Dampening is at 0 (default setting). If I want to make it softer (aka springy), then I'll have to simply turn the knob counter-clockwise. If I want to make it stiffer, then I'll have to turn the knob clockwise. The knob clicks but I find it amazing how -2 (2 clicks counter-clockwise) made a whole world of difference. I could not feel many potholes. The ride was bit spongy but I set it back to 0 because it was too spongy for me which affects my agility and aggressive cornering - very very important to have in NYC in order to quickly response to any incidents. I think it can go as far as -/+ 5 clicks. Spongy setting is mainly for offroad. I don't want to make it stiffer because I certainly don't want to feel a bone-jarring shock thru my back if I go over pothole.

For Spring Preload adjustment, this is for how heavy you are including side cases and passenger. My shock is rated for 190 lbs and I'm only 140 lbs so that's a 50 lbs difference which does affect your ride quality and comfort. If your shock is rated for 250 lbs and you're only 140 lbs... that's going to affect your ride quality and comfort pretty bad because it will be very stiff and it won't absorbs shock very well.

Since my shock is only 50 lbs difference... it's perfectly fine. I have top and side cases on my bike so that's probably 15-20 lbs more. and my spring preload setting is at the lowest level. If I do 2-UP, that's about 100-140 lbs extra so I'll have to adjust my Spring Preload to higher otherwise... if I don't, my shock will completely bottom out as I go over any bump. that's not good. a waste of fine $1,000 shocks. My old shock was completely bottomed out. It was very unpleasant. For my bike, shock is typically kaput at after 20,000 miles.

Tip for ya'all - you have to keep in mind and make a list of which parts will usually go kaput after certain year/miles and what kind of maintenance is needed after certain miles. For example -

for my 2003 BMW F650GS...

1. oil change is every 4,000 miles even though service manual says 6,000 but I like my engine fresh and healthy :)
2. engine valve adjustment is every 6,000 miles
3. brake fluid change is once a year
4. OEM shock will go kaput after 20,000 miles
5. so on....
 
I don't go on trip or something demanding unless I ride it for at least 500 miles but 1,000 miles is better. For every major upgrade it has, it needs to pass my 1,000 miles test for me to be satisfied and then it's golden. Couple more weeks... then I'm gonna start seriously considering doing a Iron Butt's SaddleSore (1000 miles in 24 hrs) or Bunburner (1500 miles in 36 hrs).

at the same time, I'm seeing doctor and doing a bit of physical therapy for my back.

FYI - 500 miles in NYC is equivalent to ~1,000 miles in country in terms of testing out as many scenarios as possible :Ohno:
 
Jiro, Why do you have to adjust the valves every 6000miles on my bike it only needs to be done every 40,000km
 
Yamaha R6, I would have thought mine would have needed much more frequent adjustments then yours
 
Ausrider said:
Yamaha R6, I would have thought mine would have needed much more frequent adjustments then yours
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oh that explains. Japanese bikes especially Honda are usually "bulletproof" which requires much less maintenance than European bikes.
 
Jiro said:
oh that explains. Japanese bikes especially Honda are usually "bulletproof" which requires much less maintenance than European bikes.
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Funny thing, Most European are less maintenance than Japanese and american for cars.
 
My father has a euro car and the maintenance for that is insainly expensive.
 
I had a Honda Rebel 250 that needed valve adjustment every 4K miles.

My current Honda Nighthawk 750 does not need any adjustments other than a carb sync if needed.

Valve adjustment is easy, but taking parts off just to get to the valves is a pain in the ass.....and time consuming.
 
Oh, by the way, do any of you transport your laptop on the bike?

I did for the first time today....I have a rugged backpack that I store the laptop in along with other things. I strapped it down on the seat with straps, not bungee cords (don't trust those things). It made a nice backrest on my business trip. Since it is my company's laptop, I was a little paranoid about it.
 
green427 said:
Oh, by the way, do any of you transport your laptop on the bike?

I did for the first time today....I have a rugged backpack that I store the laptop in along with other things. I strapped it down on the seat with straps, not bungee cords (don't trust those things). It made a nice backrest on my business trip. Since it is my company's laptop, I was a little paranoid about it.
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yup - I do it all the time. just did today. when transporting - I keep my laptop in a soft, cushioned carrying bag to protect my laptop from vibration. and then I put it in my side hard cases. lockable too.

you're very right that bungee cords are not to be trusted. if you can - take a pix of how you transport your laptop on your bike.
 
Jiro said:
oh that explains. Japanese bikes especially Honda are usually "bulletproof" which requires much less maintenance than European bikes.
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What about Suzuki??? I read it was a 5 star review on 2002 VL800 or C50. Same what you say Honda which requires much less maintenance which is correct. I have 4 valves each cylinder.

I recently removed carburetor from my bike and tore it all apart (including ventri, 3 jets, float, and anything removable with holes inside of it). I can see yellow films inside float bowl and black film inside intake of carburetor. It's clearly from using cheap gas with 10% ethanol (Some gas pump do not have label that tells me if it have 10% ethanol) I use Premium gas 95% of the time. The last time I cleaned carb was last year spring. I clean it with Gum Out carb cleaner, use old toothbrush to brush any stubborn stains then blast it clean and dry with compressed air. Put it all back together and cranked few times then it fired up then warmed up. It ran much softer and smoother. I adjusted idle jet 1-3/4 turn (contrast to factory 1-1/2 turns) then Idle speed screw. Now, throttle is much better on 1/4 twist.

I also repaired 4 turn signal lights. Because on left side of my motorcycle, two of turn signal lights was sagging while on right side seem rigid and straight. It was damaged by former owner who dropped the motorcycle. The rubber section between turn signal light and frame bolt was little torn inside. I did a red necker job without paying a penny for new replacement. I basically cracked open wide chrome ring that protects rubber section and cut it with utility knife (I basically slice it until knife blade hit the "L" angled side that connects to turn signal (it's basically a holder) and other end that have bolt encased with rubber). I leave 1/4 of rubber on other side of "L" section alone. Then I drilled a hole to enlarge hole on "L" section then I use pneumatic cutter to cut portion of frame bolt (It have hole for wire to go through inside bolt), leaving threads and part of top flange to fit into "L" hole section. Then I pounded bolt section through 1/4 rubber part with spanner and hammer on top of sawed off bolt flange. Thread comes out of bottom of "L" section so that I can easily slip wires through bolt, screw in turn signal to side of "L" section like before and then put bolt into frame and tighten it. Bingo!! it looks perfect!!! and shortened. It looked very much like Harley than japanese look and very stiff and straight. I'm happy and satisfied with new look. All the work took me an hour to do so because it took time for me to cut off extra section from all 4 bolts. So you can call it Red Necker repair job.

I even removed plastic covering (fake metal look-alike swingarm support) from shaft end drive and threw it away. It look better without it.

I have pix below

IMAG0186.jpg


IMAG0185.jpg


IMAG0187.jpg


Before removing plastic end drive cover and also you can see left side turn signal seem crooky and longer before I made a modification:

IMAG0075-1.jpg


After removing plastic end drive cover::

IMAG0188.jpg



Catty
 
It seem everyone are going quiet on Motorcycle blog?? Betcha summer is coming to end and it's almost time to store your motorcycle for winter and break out your Cager :lol: ..

Catty
 
purplecatty said:
It seem everyone are going quiet on Motorcycle blog?? Betcha summer is coming to end and it's almost time to store your motorcycle for winter and break out your Cager :lol: ..

Catty
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oh sorry! :lol: it's summer, ya know? busy busy busy time. oh it's not almost time for me to stash away my bike. For me - I've got another 3-4 months left :Ohno:
 
c
Jiro said:
oh sorry! :lol: it's summer, ya know? busy busy busy time. oh it's not almost time for me to stash away my bike. For me - I've got another 3-4 months left :Ohno:
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Yep! Time flied already!! July heat is over and now cooling down here in KS. I am going to wear jacket cuz it's mid 50's every A.M. now.

I recently put saddle bag and mustang seat back on after my 1 1/2 week vacation riding on my "Bobber". I had been riding motorcycle alot until temperature dropped recently. Like I mentioned above posting, I cleaned my carburetor and it ran better. I wish I had heater for carburetor like the one for European Volusia so that I won't be waiting for engine to warm up.

I learned that 2005 and up Suzuki Boulevard C-50 (same as my Volusia C-50) have fuel injector. I wish I had known about it so I would have bought fuel injected model. Volusia model from 2001 to 2004 are carburetor and driveshaft model. Maurader from 2000 and before, same body and engine but chain drive and exhaust on one cylinder is opposite side. I read that Volusia cylinder head and Maurader head are compatible, just swap it so you can have exhaust system on both sides like one of Harley. Intresting.

Catty
 
Nice thread, from what I have read so far. To many pages to read in one sitting, but nice to know there is always something worth reading on this site. Been riding for about a year and a half now. I ride daily commuting to and from work - every day of the year, weather permitting (don't ride in the rain).


Cheers
 
impaired said:
Nice thread, from what I have read so far. To many pages to read in one sitting, but nice to know there is always something worth reading on this site. Been riding for about a year and a half now. I ride daily commuting to and from work - every day of the year, weather permitting (don't ride in the rain).


Cheers
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what do you ride?
 
Jiro said:
what do you ride?
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Big Red Pig, aka XR650L. On Friday's I like to ride down the riverbed (dry) on my way home, it's very peaceful after a long work week. I live in a rural area where nearby desert trails are plentiful. So a dual sport fits right in.
 
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