Which do you prefer=timing chain or timing belt?

The Highlander said:
BUT the 3.0L H6 engine use timing chain. The 2.5L H4 engine use timing belt. I forget about H6. Sorry.

Yes, timing belt is very expensive for boxer engine due very WIDE than I and V.
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Yea, I heard that the 6 cylinder uses timing chain, weird.
 
sequoias said:
I have heard of timing chains that can be very costly to repair if it becomes loose as the chain stretchens. That is much more expensive than belt driven engines. Belts rarely stretch while chains do sometimes. It varies on the design of the engines and the manufacturers.

Most Hondas are interference engines (which is why I'm worried), some Toyotas, etc. Chrysler is the only company that has avoided making interference designed engines.
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yes, Hondas, few times I worked on the heads (bend valves)' subleted to the machine shop for valve job.
The noise timing chains in SOHC or DOHC engines are expensive repairs than the OHV engines. The common noises are locating in the right bank sides(passenger side) of the V6 or V8 engines (V10?). The loose chains look like 10 speed bicycle when you pedal and notice loose chain on the bottom than upper chain same as the SOHC or DOHC engines.
My last timing chain job was a 1998 Infiniti Q45 w 4.1L DOHC V8 in 2002 at Chevron station for noise chain in right bank side. Fix chain was involved the entired engine/tranny removal by lift the car and drop the engine/tranny. cylinder heads needed to removal to access the chains and guides/tensioners. It took 20 hours labor. The price tag for chain job was $4k. Customer's mechanical insurance took a care of it. $4k lot of money, I made good money sheesh. This chain job is not for a novice mechanic even a Saturday mechanic.
 
sequoias said:
Are you aware of them becoming loose because deaf people can't hear that?
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That was happen to my deaf customer who brought her a Toyota Camry for oil
change. My tech informed me that he heard noises in timing belt then informed her. I can't hear it but I use a long driverscrew to pinpoint the engine, feel the handle of driverscrew to see if feel funny as driverscrew to be move to another place to compare the feelings. If strange, I call my tech to hear it for me. One problem is I can't detect the low noises with my driverscrew. I have fuel injector test gun with LED blinks to probe injector to see the blinks and can be use it for noise areas.
 
deafsmogtech said:
yes, Hondas, few times I worked on the heads (bend valves)' subleted to the machine shop for valve job.
The noise timing chains in SOHC or DOHC engines are expensive repairs than the OHV engines. The common noises are locating in the right bank sides(passenger side) of the V6 or V8 engines (V10?). The loose chains look like 10 speed bicycle when you pedal and notice loose chain on the bottom than upper chain same as the SOHC or DOHC engines.
My last timing chain job was a 1998 Infiniti Q45 w 4.1L DOHC V8 in 2002 at Chevron station for noise chain in right bank side. Fix chain was involved the entired engine/tranny removal by lift the car and drop the engine/tranny. cylinder heads needed to removal to access the chains and guides/tensioners. It took 20 hours labor. The price tag for chain job was $4k. Customer's mechanical insurance took a care of it. $4k lot of money, I made good money sheesh. This chain job is not for a novice mechanic even a Saturday mechanic.
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Four thousand bucks just to fix that timing chain issue? 0.0
 
Milwaukee said:
You go to Lowes or Harbor Frieght for cheap tools.

get those electric impact wrench IT WORTH. We have air impact wrench but I choose electric why no deal with air hose.



You get manual book that show how to do that.

That what I did when I replace timing belt on geo first time.
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Fk electric 1/2 drive impact tools. I hate to tell you that Im against all electric impact or drill tools cuz of fire hazard or explosive. If you work inside the shop or garage that is insufficient vent, what happen to gas container or fuel leak from under the hood? Use it outside is fine no plm.
No electric impact tools allow in gas station, no one use them. Safety reason. You be careful with any fuel vapor, I bet you have common sense.
 
deafsmogtech said:
Fk electric 1/2 drive impact tools. I hate to tell you that Im against all electric impact or drill tools cuz of fire hazard or explosive. If you work inside the shop or garage that is insufficient vent, what happen to gas container or fuel leak from under the hood? Use it outside is fine no plm.
No electric impact tools allow in gas station, no one use them. Safety reason. You be careful with any fuel vapor, I bet you have common sense.
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I don't use inside building because there air compressor with air hoses.

But I use electric impact for junkyard or remove tires in outside.


$4,000 to do that timing chains. That customer is SMART to have mechanical insurance on it.



another question what exact cause timing chain's sprocket wear out FAST.
history
it 89 F150 with new block 5.0L 302 in 1998 so it have 10,000 miles. We knew it was 10,000 miles how it was clean. But notice timing chain actual too loose for me. Notice Sprocket on camshaft look bad shape.
Oil it was 10w30 with Bastard Junk Fram oil filter.
And preview owner is 19 years old so I bet it been hit 5,000 or 6,000 rpm and never drove on Highway with those miles.
 
deafsmogtech said:
Fk electric 1/2 drive impact tools. I hate to tell you that Im against all electric impact or drill tools cuz of fire hazard or explosive. If you work inside the shop or garage that is insufficient vent, what happen to gas container or fuel leak from under the hood? Use it outside is fine no plm.
No electric impact tools allow in gas station, no one use them. Safety reason. You be careful with any fuel vapor, I bet you have common sense.
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I am agreed with you. I like air tools over electric for stronger torque.

deafsmogtech said:
oh, I have no idea on newer gasoline Subaru boxer engines.
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It is not really the newer engine. It's start since 2001 or early.
 
sequoias said:
That's cool. :)



Ohhh I didn't know you can use a drill with the socket adapter, that's neat tool for sure.
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There are 1/2, 3/8th, and 1/4th inch socket adapter for reverseable power drill in hardware store. They're ususually around $3 to $4 a pieces. You can find one in any hardware store or auto parts. It's located where drills, phillips and slotted screwdriver for power drill. You can spot it quickly since it's square end with hex on other end. It was use for screwing in or unscrewing nuts and bolts for home, playground equipments, and many more.

I use it alot when unscrewing or screwing in the nuts or bolts quickly. But I tightened it by hand after screwing in. Not all nuts or bolts can be unscrewed by drill so I have to unscrew it by hand first then use drill. This help get my job done real quickly.

My advice is to give yourself time walk around hardware and auto part store and look for tools that can do some tricks. You'll be surprised that they have lot of cool tools that you overlooked. Several of my friend drooled over my weird or "special" tools that they never seen before. :roll:


sequoias said:
That's cool. :)

How can you do that in 30 minute? I heard it takes about 4 hours to do that on a fwd car.
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How did I change the timing belt in 30 min. 89' Mazda 323 have small timing belt, about 34" diameter. I can easily access timing belt through wheelwell (removing wheel off the car). It was well designed for repair or maintenance. I can easily swap out Alternator less than 5 min top. Mazda 323 have roomy engine compartment except for front of engine on the side of body that have 1" space in between.

catty
 
Milwaukee said:
I don't use inside building because there air compressor with air hoses.

But I use electric impact for junkyard or remove tires in outside.


$4,000 to do that timing chains. That customer is SMART to have mechanical insurance on it.



another question what exact cause timing chain's sprocket wear out FAST.
history
it 89 F150 with new block 5.0L 302 in 1998 so it have 10,000 miles. We knew it was 10,000 miles how it was clean. But notice timing chain actual too loose for me. Notice Sprocket on camshaft look bad shape.
Oil it was 10w30 with Bastard Junk Fram oil filter.
And preview owner is 19 years old so I bet it been hit 5,000 or 6,000 rpm and never drove on Highway with those miles.
Click to expand...
Aluminum casting cam sprocket with molded nylon teeth like Catty's post#14, wear fast. Back in my engine rebuilding day, I saw a pile of worn out cam sprockets on the floor of the tear down dept, where I used to ground crankshafts, asked a foreman shop, why the molded nylon sprockets? He said these sprockets were designed to reduce noises. Flawed design. The molded nylon teeth became harden and break due to heat or wrong oil maybe fuel dilitued in oil (Flooded carburetor). If you put a new t-chain kit ( include cast iron or steel sprockets) in OHV block, notice a chain became a tight, then the t-chain will stretch. Normal. Nothing wrong with loose t-chain. Link type chain stretch big than roller type chain. I think the molded nylon cam sprockets are no longer in modern OHV engines. Maybe Im wrong?
 
The Highlander said:
I am agreed with you. I like air tools over electric for stronger torque.



It is not really the newer engine. It's start since 2001 or early.
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never mind I thought u talk abt the t-chain in a Subaru boxer. I dunno. I saw 2 t-belts on a Subaru engine I think it was a DOHC.
 
deafsmogtech said:
never mind I thought u talk abt the t-chain in a Subaru boxer. I dunno. I saw 2 t-belts on a Subaru engine I think it was a DOHC.
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Subaru 2.5L H4 use t-belt and Subaru 3.0L H6 use t-chain.


Here a first picture of 2001 Subaru Legacy Outback LL Bean Ed. AWD H6-3.0L
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Here a second picture of 2001 Subaru Impreza 2.5 RS Sedan AWD H4-2.5L SOHC
2hdcmzq.gif


Just made clear up for you.
 
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