like ive said, surfing is in my family. i bet ocean water runs through my veins. its something very simple. all you need to surf is a surfboard and an ocean. your right in the middle of mother nature. and when your out in the ocean, every negative thing gets drowned by the ocean. and its like a meditation. and also surfing is about respect. you respect the other surfers around you. and you respect the ocean. if you dont respect other surfers they will beat you up. and also, if you dont respect the ocean, it will beat you up.
hurricane Francine was pretty awesome. but my favorite was Hurricane Andrew. that was my very first hurricane. lol and i got into A LOT of trouble when my aunt patty found me. i didn't tell her i was going, i just went. i was about 10
oh yes i have gotten majorly owned by the waves. ive had my ankle sprained by a surf wipe out. i went to my truck, duct taped my ankle and went back out.
no ive never surfed in hawaii before, but ive dreamed about it
lol yes my girlfriend is very real. ive known her since i was 13.