Honda Civic: "CHECK ENGINE" light on

diehardbiker said:
DST just passed test, LOL

Does my vehicle qualify for a smog exemption?

Smog inspections are required unless your vehicle is:

Hybrid
Gasoline powered 1975 year model or older
Diesel powered 1997 year model and older or with a Gross Vehicle Weight rating (GVWR) of more than 14,000 lbs
Electric
Natural gas powered with a GVWR rating of more than 14,000 lbs.
Motorcycle
Trailer


Found under Smog Information
Click to expand...

Ah cool. I guess I could get a 1969-1972 Datsun 510 4 door with 5 speed manual and avoid smog checks, lol. Just kidding.
 
diehardbiker said:
Emission control were first required on all vehicles in 1976. Catalytic converter was installed 1976 and later vehicles. Catalytic converter will be damaged if used leaded gas instead of unleaded gas.

I understand why you thought it was 1973, that is when larger engines in cars were outlaw, no more 4 barrel carbs, engine has to be smaller. If you had 1972 Caddy, it will have 500 CID engine (That is 8.2 litre) and that was last model year caddy ever had huge engine in it.
Click to expand...

First emission device installed in domestic vehicles, were PCV system (Closed Type) in 1963 or 1964. I think.
 
I don't know how to say this but I understand the environment concerns but I think its kinda cool seeing rolling coal. Its pretty much like showing its true power. Think about this 500 CID with 4 barrels, its gonna give a real raw power where efficiency was least concerned of.

I own 400 CID with 4 barrel Rochester carb back then. Man! a lot of power. That one does rolling coal all the time and I get 8 MPG at best.

Today, efficiency now is considered top of priority due to EPA (Censored)

deafsmogtech said:
Yes, real terrible.
Click to expand...
 
Try this:
Press and hold the mileage reset, put key into ignition and turn it on (not start the engine yet) for 10 sec or more til the engine lights disappear then turn key ignition off and start up the engine If its disappeared and wont come back on for a few minutes means you're good to go or if its come back on means there's still need to fix. Hope this works out for you.
 
Endemic said:
Try this:
Press and hold the mileage reset, put key into ignition and turn it on (not start the engine yet) for 10 sec or more til the engine lights disappear then turn key ignition off and start up the engine If its disappeared and wont come back on for a few minutes means you're good to go or if its come back on means there's still need to fix. Hope this works out for you.
Click to expand...

Engine lights you mentioned is referring to reset oil service procedure. I do that many times on the vehicles.
 
sequoias said:
Even the pistons, camshafts, connecting rods, etc? What parts of the truck is made in other countries? That's a mystery. Not many people want to buy a brand new $40,000 truck. Blame it on unionized jobs.
Click to expand...

I have a F-250 myself and am planning to upgrade to an F350 or F450 or similar size as I am not limited to Fords but I am certainly commited to buying American. I wouldn't expect it to be a perfect system for sure but I will do my best to make sure as much of it goes back into our communities.

I think that's a case of it "sounds" like a lot more than it really is. Sticker shock has been around for decades. Decent trucks really aren't that much more money than a decent car these days. One thing... down here in Texas, there are a great deal of trucks. I have driven up north and it is striking to see just how few trucks there are compared. I don't understand it myself as they are completely essential to independence.
 
Trucks are usually cheaper than cars back then. Not anymore :( They are now about the same, price wise.

Get Diesel, and you will love it. I love my F-250, sometimes I wish I get 02 Excursion 7.3L Diesel with 9 passengers in that SUV. (One exception, stay away from 6.4L. These engines can't handle the pressure of Diesel well. I have seen one blew the engine when doing figure 8)

F-350 is pretty much same as F-250, just add few cargo weight for 350. I was told that Chevy is cheaper in maintenance than Ford, but I had enough of bad experience with GM and decided not worth the risk for me. I had my F-250 2.5 years and have not had single issue other than replace alternator which is very easy to replace.

NitroHonda said:
I have a F-250 myself and am planning to upgrade to an F350 or F450 or similar size as I am not limited to Fords but I am certainly commited to buying American. I wouldn't expect it to be a perfect system for sure but I will do my best to make sure as much of it goes back into our communities.

I think that's a case of it "sounds" like a lot more than it really is. Sticker shock has been around for decades. Decent trucks really aren't that much more money than a decent car these days. One thing... down here in Texas, there are a great deal of trucks. I have driven up north and it is striking to see just how few trucks there are compared. I don't understand it myself as they are completely essential to independence.
Click to expand...
 
deafsmogtech said:
Engine lights you mentioned is referring to reset oil service procedure. I do that many times on the vehicles.
Click to expand...

:laugh2:

Same here. For newer GM? Just turned key on and engine off. Press accelerator pedal to WOT for three times to reset oil service.

I remembered one customer bought his car to me and asked for check engine light please. I was checked and puzzled and I explained customer that it was not engine light. It was low tire pressure light. So Just inflation tires up and check with tire pressure gauge then light will going off by itself.
 
diehardbiker said:
Trucks are usually cheaper than cars back then. Not anymore :( They are now about the same, price wise.

Get Diesel, and you will love it. I love my F-250, sometimes I wish I get 02 Excursion 7.3L Diesel with 9 passengers in that SUV. (One exception, stay away from 6.4L. These engines can't handle the pressure of Diesel well. I have seen one blew the engine when doing figure 8)

F-350 is pretty much same as F-250, just add few cargo weight for 350. I was told that Chevy is cheaper in maintenance than Ford, but I had enough of bad experience with GM and decided not worth the risk for me. I had my F-250 2.5 years and have not had single issue other than replace alternator which is very easy to replace.
Click to expand...

Because truck was smaller and small engine like S-10 in the past.


Screw diesel V-8 and get diesel I-6 like Cummins.

Most I6 motors are low maintenance and cheap than V8.

I6 5.9L got 610 lb-ft @ 1,600 RPM. 101 lb-ft per cylinder then 17 lb-ft per liter.
I6 6.7L got 850 lb-ft @ 1,600 rpm. 141 lb-ft per cylinder then 21 lb-ft per liter

(6.7L with new Aisin AS69RC trans)

V8 6.4L got 650 lb-ft @ 2,000 RPM. 81 lb-ft per cylinder then 12lb-ft per liter.
V8 7.3L got 525 lb-ft @ 1,600 RPM. 65 lb-ft per cylinder then 8 lb-ft per liter.

High Torque @ low rpm made engine long life and low maintenance. That's why 99% of semi-truck use I6 motor.
 
My 1996 Honda Accord had check engine light lit on last year. I use OBDII to USB adapter to connect to my laptop. It shows that EGR needed to be replaced. Easy one. My Dodge Durango had Check light lit for 4 years because I'm not gonna craw over to back of engine to replace EGR. It's in bad spot and State of KS do not requires smog inspection so why bother. Unless I moved to another state, I would replace it before I take it to inspection.

Catty
 
purplecatty said:
My 1996 Honda Accord had check engine light lit on last year. I use OBDII to USB adapter to connect to my laptop. It shows that EGR needed to be replaced. Easy one. My Dodge Durango had Check light lit for 4 years because I'm not gonna craw over to back of engine to replace EGR. It's in bad spot and State of KS do not requires smog inspection so why bother. Unless I moved to another state, I would replace it before I take it to inspection.

Catty
Click to expand...

Bad EGR cause poor MPG and poor performance. Sometime overheat issue depend on cooling system.
 
I asked my son to see if the MIL is on, he says MIL off itself without clear code with a scan tool. I didn't get to fix it cuz he commute his car to work. I try to scanning the computer to see if EVAP code still stored or erased...
 
Hello, I'm back, have been busy since summertime. No easy. I forget to tell you about the EVAP code last summer, I ordered a new gas cap (Japan made) from Honda dealer last July, cost $32. I replaced it and cleared EVAP code P1456 EVAP System Leak Detected (Fuel Tank System). No EVAP code return since last Sept.
My son informed me that his car hit 100K miles on it about couple of weeks ago. I told him that I will replace complete timing belt kit (come with new water pump, tensioner and timing belt) soon maybe next month....
 
Oh dear god, at least he has a timing belt. I snapped a timing chain... ( Yes, chain ) In my 2010 Scion ( Not sure how with so little miles it snapped but whatever ) and the damage that did was depressing.... :( Fixed now, but good god!
 
Mewtilation said:
Oh dear god, at least he has a timing belt. I snapped a timing chain... ( Yes, chain ) In my 2010 Scion ( Not sure how with so little miles it snapped but whatever ) and the damage that did was depressing.... :( Fixed now, but good god!
Click to expand...

You bitch. But timing chains make more noises than rubber timing belts. I wish I have a newer Honda Civic w/ timing chain then I have no worry or can't hear noisy timing chains...
 
Yes, but the damage of a broken timing chain.... *shudders* Sooooooo much money.... Soooooo much time.... Had to have the whole head re-done. All 16 valves bent. Thanks non-resistant motor! :roll: In a car with 20k miles on it.... Me thinks someone put my timing chain back on wrong when they were fixing something else... :mad: It's fixed now though thankfully, months and months back, runs great now! :D
 
Back
Top