Car issues

Milwaukee said:
Sound it leak vacuum. I remember when drove my friend's F250 for plow snow first time it would stupper then stall every time I change to reverse. Found pvc valve's hose fell off Intake and it been suck air for long time.
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You can isolate a vaccum leak by running the car in park and then press the brake. If the idle changes it could be the brake booste, valve or vac line.
 
It's probably the vacuum leak or the brake booster vacuum....sounds complicated to check since I can't hear any vacuum leaks or whatever. That's what most people say in the links that Rockdrummer provided.
 
sequoias said:
It's probably the vacuum leak or the brake booster vacuum....sounds complicated to check since I can't hear any vacuum leaks or whatever. That's what most people say in the links that Rockdrummer provided.
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ahh, I bet that it's a brake booster system. I am surprised that your car has it. I thought that most new cars don't have it, and maybe, I'm wrong about that.

In 1998, I replaced my brake booster system, and it solved most of it. But, it is still other part like a PCV valve that you might to replace it, too. There is one more valve, and I don't remember it now.

I think I understand how you feel about driving with a bad brake that gives you a real nightmare. It's like driving slow 10 mph until a stop light is on, and your car won't stop until it is almost about to hit other car's rear. Is that right, sequoias? (That's how I got scared to death a few times.)
 
Ummhh.. I'll check to that. I agree that it's a vacuum leak. My truck gas tank was half full or nearly full and it stalls the engine when I brake hard and shift reverse. I am planning on do oil/sparkplug change, will check the problem with vacuum.

Catty
 
Sorry you are having problems with your car. There are so many areas that could be causing the problem. Is the Service Engine Soon Light on or any other unusual lamps on when the engine is running. NOT after the engine stalls. Once the engine stops running, many lights should turn on. SES, Engine, Oil pressure and maybe some others. You should be able to shift into Neutral and start the engine instead of shifting all the way to Park.

Hear are some questions I would think a mechanic/technician would need information on before they start working on the car. The information may help them in the diagnostics.

When did the stalling begin? I read about a timing belt replacement/service.
Does the engine stall as you come to a stop or does the engine try to keep running and stall when you let your foot off the brake pedal.
If the engine tries to keep running, have you tried bumping the shifter from drive to neutral to see if the engine will continue running. This should eliminate a locked up Torque converter clutch that may be slow to release.
Does fuel level play a part in the stalling?
Does the engine stall from 10mph to 0, 20mph to 0, 30 mph to 0, 40mph to 0. You get the idea. This may vary depending on what gear the transmission is in when you stop quickly.
Does it stall after heavy acceleration or normal acceleration and a quick jump on the brakes to stop the car like a traffic light just changed and not all the cars got through the intersection.
When you say stop quickly, are you heavier than normal on the brakes or are you pushing through the floor board in a panic stop?

If this started after a recent service, something may have been missed during reassembly resulting in the stalling. There is a possibility that the cam timing is off on the engine allowing poor engine vacuum if this all started after the timing belt service. Vacuum lines could be put on wrong or loose grounds or sensor connections. The Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve if equipped may be sticking allowing to much air into the engine when you stop quickly which makes the engine run very lean and stall. I honestly don't know if your car has an IAC valve but am pretty sure they did not have electronic throttle bodies in '98.

The best recommendation would be to understand when and how you can recreate the stalling and get the car to a technician who has a scan/diagnostic tool so they can look at the engine data while the problem happens. If there is a SES light illuminated, you might be able to take the car to Autozone or Pepboys Autoparts store and have the codes read. Other parts stores may offer this service as well. A dealer may be the fastest and cheapest way to fix the car but if you had repairs performed on the car recently, take the car back to the shop especially if the problem started after the work was performed. This would be called a comeback if the job was not performed correct and you should not have to pay for it to be done right. You may want to talk to the Service Manager at the shop who did the work before you agree to leave the car.

Hopefully it is something easy and quick that won't cost an arm and a leg.
 
One more suggestion.

Most cars, you can push the shifter from Drive to Neutral without pressing the button. Some cars will go all the way to Reverse without pressing the button.

Try it in the driveway. Shift to Drive and push forward on the shifter without pressing the button. If you can only shift to Neutral and not to Reverse, all you need to do when coming to a stop is bump the shifter to Neutral. Just hit it forward with a little force. Don't need to jamb it forward. If your car goes all the way to Reverse, I would caution you against this as I can just see it now, instead of hitting the car in front of you, you back into the car behind you. Not the best result of trying something new and they probably wouldn't be to happy.

Again, Hope your able to figure this out pretty fast.
 
Off topic, I had a tech man at a garage shop to use his a scan/diagnostic tool to verify my truck, and he can't find a problem. He charged on my bill for 100 bucks. He is a full of &*%! . I won't do it again if there is other problem with my truck. He threw my original gas cap and replaced it with a new and very cheap plastic cap - probably made in China. Finally, a tow truck took my truck to a junkyard for 50 bucks in one year later - a gas tank leak and a broken bolt on a manifold frame twice. I loved my old Blazer truck because it was easy to turn around back on the street without back and forth. It dies so we get old and die, too.
 
rockdrummer said:
You can isolate a vaccum leak by running the car in park and then press the brake. If the idle changes it could be the brake booste, valve or vac line.
Click to expand...
If you suspect bad brake booster, have a hearing person with you to drive or park the vehicle to listen buzzing or whistling noise from under the dash at the brake pedal, if noise presents, indicates vacuum leaks. Replace brake booster. I use my vacuum leak detector to detecting the vacuum leak areas and this meter (vac leak detector) helps me a lot, easy to isolate the vacuum leaks.
 
SteveESP52 said:
Sorry you are having problems with your car. There are so many areas that could be causing the problem. Is the Service Engine Soon Light on or any other unusual lamps on when the engine is running. NOT after the engine stalls. Once the engine stops running, many lights should turn on. SES, Engine, Oil pressure and maybe some others. You should be able to shift into Neutral and start the engine instead of shifting all the way to Park.

Hear are some questions I would think a mechanic/technician would need information on before they start working on the car. The information may help them in the diagnostics.

When did the stalling begin? I read about a timing belt replacement/service.
Does the engine stall as you come to a stop or does the engine try to keep running and stall when you let your foot off the brake pedal.
If the engine tries to keep running, have you tried bumping the shifter from drive to neutral to see if the engine will continue running. This should eliminate a locked up Torque converter clutch that may be slow to release.
Does fuel level play a part in the stalling?
Does the engine stall from 10mph to 0, 20mph to 0, 30 mph to 0, 40mph to 0. You get the idea. This may vary depending on what gear the transmission is in when you stop quickly.
Does it stall after heavy acceleration or normal acceleration and a quick jump on the brakes to stop the car like a traffic light just changed and not all the cars got through the intersection.
When you say stop quickly, are you heavier than normal on the brakes or are you pushing through the floor board in a panic stop?

If this started after a recent service, something may have been missed during reassembly resulting in the stalling. There is a possibility that the cam timing is off on the engine allowing poor engine vacuum if this all started after the timing belt service. Vacuum lines could be put on wrong or loose grounds or sensor connections. The Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve if equipped may be sticking allowing to much air into the engine when you stop quickly which makes the engine run very lean and stall. I honestly don't know if your car has an IAC valve but am pretty sure they did not have electronic throttle bodies in '98.

The best recommendation would be to understand when and how you can recreate the stalling and get the car to a technician who has a scan/diagnostic tool so they can look at the engine data while the problem happens. If there is a SES light illuminated, you might be able to take the car to Autozone or Pepboys Autoparts store and have the codes read. Other parts stores may offer this service as well. A dealer may be the fastest and cheapest way to fix the car but if you had repairs performed on the car recently, take the car back to the shop especially if the problem started after the work was performed. This would be called a comeback if the job was not performed correct and you should not have to pay for it to be done right. You may want to talk to the Service Manager at the shop who did the work before you agree to leave the car.

Hopefully it is something easy and quick that won't cost an arm and a leg.
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If I have a customer (sequoias) right with me, I would plug my scan tool to verify DTCs and pending code, if nothing then take a car to driving to duplicate customer's complaint by observe the data (scan tool) of the IAC counts and STFT & LTFT, also TCC or shifting soleniods. If the data reveals normal and find nothing wrong. It would be difficult to diagnose. The techs at the dealer are not 100% accurate to fix the problems even master techs too (include me).
 
purplecatty said:
:hmm: Interesting. It sound like it's like my old 1995 Chrystler Grand Caravan Sport 3.0 liter that died when I stopped at intersection. I no longer have van and it had 98,000 miles on it. I traded in old van for brand new 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan Sport. I suspect that there were valve problem or vaccuum (It didn't have much tubes on its engine).

My Dodge Durango dies on me if it rocks hard (drove over deep curb and rough pavement at slow speed) or if I slam the brake to full stop and reverse then tried to shift to drive and it dies on me. I couldn't figure out where the problem was, It have 68,000 miles now.

Do you know what was the problem is?

Catty
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I remmby your Dodge Durango in old thread, is it a 2005 w/ a 4.7L? 4WD?
 
I agree with deaftechsmog about diagosting the problems with the car. It is not easy to pinpoint without a hearing folk or a special tool to narrow down to what is causing the problem. I haven't found anything wrong so far.. I would hate to waste money on a mechanic that couldn't find the problem.

I hope I will find time to call the mechanic who did the timing belt service and see if he's willing to inspect for no charge.
 
You might want to call your priest to come over and get the damn satan out of your car! The satan needs to stop playing with you.

I think that you should ask your Dad if he has a friend who knows how to fix or check your car.
 
webexplorer said:
You might want to call your priest to come over and get the damn satan out of your car! The satan needs to stop playing with you.

I think that you should ask your Dad if he has a friend who knows how to fix or check your car.
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LOL about satan thing.

Well my parents live in California.
 
Check all vacume lines, It's doesn't do anything with ingitions because you stop too hard and it just want to died. Thats means you might need have fuel injection checked because when you left go gas pedal too quick and it shouldn't SHUT all way, Should be idling... If you have 5 speed manual, try use clutch first before you stop too hard, Any more questions? im me back.. Also check your clutch, everywhere Flywheel, Clutch, fork, etc cuz it seem also it just stay shut, Wouldn't let go when it get hot as you driving while, freeway or highway
 
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