Car issues

sequoias

sequoias

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I am wondering why my car stalls when braking hard to a complete stop. I have to go to the P on the automatic transmission lever to re-start the engine then go back to D and off I go. It doesn't happen when I brake normally. My car is a 2000 Honda Civic EX with 93,600 miles on it. This is only for someone who can answer which has mechanical experience or have heard of that issue that was repaired before.

Thanks in advance
 
sequoias said:
I am wondering why my car stalls when braking hard to a complete stop. I have to go to the P on the automatic transmission lever to re-start the engine then go back to D and off I go. It doesn't happen when I brake normally. My car is a 2000 Honda Civic EX with 93,600 miles on it. This is only for someone who can answer which has mechanical experience or have heard of that issue that was repaired before.

Thanks in advance
Click to expand...
sounds like lock-up TCC but I need ur VIN start 1st of 17 characters....
1st digit....1 or J? 1 is USA made and J is Japan made. I can look up tech hotline tmw at my work for u if there is come up to match your complaint then
post
 
deafsmogtech said:
sounds like lock-up TCC but I need ur VIN start 1st of 17 characters....
1st digit....1 or J? 1 is USA made and J is Japan made. I can look up tech hotline tmw at my work for u if there is come up to match your complaint then
post
Click to expand...

What is TCC? I'll PM you the vin number.
 
sequoias said:
What is TCC? I'll PM you the vin number.
Click to expand...
TCC is torque converter clutch. I looked up the tech hotline today, find no match for "Stalls when braking hard". Sorry. I'm glad to helping u. I wud like to question you abt ur car.
Does it happens to panic braking or happen on the wet road? Driveability problem prior to stall conditon? Have u notice MIL on or flick MIL or flick/blink dash lights (cluster) like brake, oil or battery warning lights when u slap brake pedal or during driving?
Recently repairs by the shop or someone prior to stall condition?
First thing to check ur car is to plug a scan tool to see if there is DTCs or pending codes if no codes then check a battery, make sure the battery cable ends are clean and tighten, posts too. Caution dont disconnect the ends from battery posts or you lost radio code (need to find codes in the owner's manual in a glove box) ofc, I dont use a dumb radio, lol
Loose battery cable ends can be driveability problem.
I know the Hondas has a history of bad ignition swithes that I replaced them at the gas stations for 13 years.
 
deafsmogtech said:
TCC is torque converter clutch. I looked up the tech hotline today, find no match for "Stalls when braking hard". Sorry. I'm glad to helping u. I wud like to question you abt ur car.
Does it happens to panic braking or happen on the wet road? Driveability problem prior to stall conditon? Have u notice MIL on or flick MIL or flick/blink dash lights (cluster) like brake, oil or battery warning lights when u slap brake pedal or during driving?
Recently repairs by the shop or someone prior to stall condition?
First thing to check ur car is to plug a scan tool to see if there is DTCs or pending codes if no codes then check a battery, make sure the battery cable ends are clean and tighten, posts too. Caution dont disconnect the ends from battery posts or you lost radio code (need to find codes in the owner's manual in a glove box) ofc, I dont use a dumb radio, lol
Loose battery cable ends can be driveability problem.
I know the Hondas has a history of bad ignition swithes that I replaced them at the gas stations for 13 years.
Click to expand...

Radio code? Interesting.
 
deafsmogtech said:
TCC is torque converter clutch. I looked up the tech hotline today, find no match for "Stalls when braking hard". Sorry. I'm glad to helping u. I wud like to question you abt ur car.
Does it happens to panic braking or happen on the wet road? Driveability problem prior to stall conditon? Have u notice MIL on or flick MIL or flick/blink dash lights (cluster) like brake, oil or battery warning lights when u slap brake pedal or during driving?
Recently repairs by the shop or someone prior to stall condition?
First thing to check ur car is to plug a scan tool to see if there is DTCs or pending codes if no codes then check a battery, make sure the battery cable ends are clean and tighten, posts too. Caution dont disconnect the ends from battery posts or you lost radio code (need to find codes in the owner's manual in a glove box) ofc, I dont use a dumb radio, lol
Loose battery cable ends can be driveability problem.
I know the Hondas has a history of bad ignition swithes that I replaced them at the gas stations for 13 years.
Click to expand...

It happens during hard braking...not panic braking with brake locking up. It only happens when braking to a standstill or something. It only happened twice since....out of several braking events.

I don't have check engine light on since or any lights coming on when braking hard. Maybe the recent repair at the shop that did timing belt service caused the issue or something. I'm not gonna buy a check engine code tool..but I can bring it to auto parts store that have one and are willing to plug it in to check if there's any codes.

I suspect it's probably the TCC solenoid failure, when you brake hard, the solenoid fails to disengage the clutch and it stalls the engine by force.....I'm not sure the chances of it failing on a Honda. 2000 model year is one of the cars with fewest complaints and recalls and 2001 was the worst of the bunch.
 
sequoias said:
It happens during hard braking...not panic braking with brake locking up. It only happens when braking to a standstill or something. It only happened twice since....out of several braking events.

I don't have check engine light on since or any lights coming on when braking hard. Maybe the recent repair at the shop that did timing belt service caused the issue or something. I'm not gonna buy a check engine code tool..but I can bring it to auto parts store that have one and are willing to plug it in to check if there's any codes.

I suspect it's probably the TCC solenoid failure, when you brake hard, the solenoid fails to disengage the clutch and it stalls the engine by force.....I'm not sure the chances of it failing on a Honda. 2000 model year is one of the cars with fewest complaints and recalls and 2001 was the worst of the bunch.
Click to expand...
Maybe not, if you exit from the freeway or highway, notice the engine is about to be sputter when light or hard braking then stalls at the stop. It wld be a TCC locked up like you forget to depress a clutch pedal to shift to neutral position when braking to stop. I know the vehicles w/ TCC locked ups problems is older GM vehicles.
My guess is your car might be having a glitch PCM, electrical surge maybe come from ABS motor that you brake too hard and ABS motor rob lot of electrical in a very moment from PCM? Or loose connectors or poor ground circuit?
Recent timing belt replaced as you mentioned, did they replace a thermostat? If so, check ground wires at the outlet housing where the T-stat is in place. I often see the Honda engine won't start after replaced T-stat, techs were forget to attach the ground wires (crimped into one eye terminal) on the outlet housing where the lower radiator hose attach to the outlet housing. That is the most technician's overlook, happen to me bef. The color on ground wires is black.
As far as I know Honda's problems is ignition switches, EFI main relays and ground circuit (that's why I ask you to check battery cable ends):hmm:
 
That sound it tired engine. Check vacuum lines if it leak. Check IAC sensor to make sure it not plugged. Pour sea foam though brake booster's vacuum line. You can find Sea foam in auto store or Meijer.

Check compression in 4 cylinders I am sure there are 1 on low pressure.



It fun when you say Ford won't last 200K miles but I see this thread.
 
deafsmogtech said:
Maybe not, if you exit from the freeway or highway, notice the engine is about to be sputter when light or hard braking then stalls at the stop. It wld be a TCC locked up like you forget to depress a clutch pedal to shift to neutral position when braking to stop. I know the vehicles w/ TCC locked ups problems is older GM vehicles.
My guess is your car might be having a glitch PCM, electrical surge maybe come from ABS motor that you brake too hard and ABS motor rob lot of electrical in a very moment from PCM? Or loose connectors or poor ground circuit?
Recent timing belt replaced as you mentioned, did they replace a thermostat? If so, check ground wires at the outlet housing where the T-stat is in place. I often see the Honda engine won't start after replaced T-stat, techs were forget to attach the ground wires (crimped into one eye terminal) on the outlet housing where the lower radiator hose attach to the outlet housing. That is the most technician's overlook, happen to me bef. The color on ground wires is black.
As far as I know Honda's problems is ignition switches, EFI main relays and ground circuit (that's why I ask you to check battery cable ends):hmm:
Click to expand...

Well, it is kind of impossible to make the engine stall....I don't have ABS. :P
It doesn't do that easy for some reason. Would it be possible the PCV valve causing the problems? I haven't replaced that yet.
 
Do you mean that you have a hard time to stop the brakes?

If yes, yike! I had the same exact problem with my former Blazer for four years that gave me a nightmare.

I believe that the PCV valve causes the problem.

Does your car have drum brakes? If yes, not good news. I always hate the drum brakes. (Always buy a car that has all four disk brakes instead of drums.)

I think that I have to agree with deafsmogtech about the battery issue. One of your cables (negative and positive wires) for the battery might have a bad connection that need also to be replaced, and it would better for you to replace the bolt/connector, too.

But, start with the PCV valve...
 
sequoias said:
Well, it is kind of impossible to make the engine stall....I don't have ABS. :P
It doesn't do that easy for some reason. Would it be possible the PCV valve causing the problems? I haven't replaced that yet.
Click to expand...
oh, I see. PCV valve? I dont think so. I was thinking of my previous Honda diagnositics and repairs at the gas stations. One more question to ask you, Was the engine stalls occur after timing belt replacement? or before T-belt replacement? If it was happen before T-belt replacement, it wud be a tranny
problem (my guess). If stall occurs after T-belt replacement, possible loose ground circuit like ground strap or bare braided copper wire. For recent T-belt changed, better to check ground strap or bare braided copper wire on the top of the valve cover near front t-belt upper cover or P/S pump that the tech may touched it when the valve cover was lifted off, access to the T-belt. Or forget to retighten ground wire?
Did u see any blinking LED on the shifter, OD or D LED on dash or console when u happen brake hard? If blink OD or D that indicates tranny problem.
 
Milwaukee said:
That sound it tired engine. Check vacuum lines if it leak. Check IAC sensor to make sure it not plugged. Pour sea foam though brake booster's vacuum line. You can find Sea foam in auto store or Meijer.

Check compression in 4 cylinders I am sure there are 1 on low pressure.



It fun when you say Ford won't last 200K miles but I see this thread.
Click to expand...

My mechanic asked me to helping him to check code P0304 cyl #4 misfire detected after he replaced new spark plugs and wires, cleared code then MIL came on as the engine was rough running, same code P0304. I pulled cyl #4 wire to see if RPM drop. No RPM change, we performed compression test on all cylinders, found cyl#4 low compression 20psi and other cyls 175-180 psi (hot engine). I told him to do leakdown test but he want to sell valve job. The fresh valve job head had been solved P0304 problem.
I still use Sea Form to top the engine to light up lazy cat converter (cold cat)
to see if it works and meet the emission level. Also pour small amount of Sea Form into the each of spark plug hole to fill the carbon buildup on the top of the piston, leave for 2 days to decarbonized to help to reduce Nox which the vehicle had failed the emission test.
 
deafsmogtech said:
oh, I see. PCV valve? I dont think so. I was thinking of my previous Honda diagnositics and repairs at the gas stations. One more question to ask you, Was the engine stalls occur after timing belt replacement? or before T-belt replacement? If it was happen before T-belt replacement, it wud be a tranny
problem (my guess). If stall occurs after T-belt replacement, possible loose ground circuit like ground strap or bare braided copper wire. For recent T-belt changed, better to check ground strap or bare braided copper wire on the top of the valve cover near front t-belt upper cover or P/S pump that the tech may touched it when the valve cover was lifted off, access to the T-belt. Or forget to retighten ground wire?
Did u see any blinking LED on the shifter, OD or D LED on dash or console when u happen brake hard? If blink OD or D that indicates tranny problem.
Click to expand...

I think it started after the timing belt service. I will double check the ground cables from tranny to the frame and the valve cover to the frame to make sure it's tight and secure. I'll also check the battery cable ends as well. I'm going to do that tomorrow after my work. He also did valve adjustments when he had to remove the valve cover.
 
The Highlander said:
Radio code? Interesting.
Click to expand...

Imported vehicles like Audis or VWs, BMWs. You can plug a 9 volt battery powered adapter into cigar lighter socket, sometime it is not working. Best way to use a 12v portable battery jump starter to jump power box (fuse/relay) and ground side then disconnect battery cable ends ( make sure you warp the positive end with shop rag or insert the positive end with old radiator hose that wont touch the ground then take a dead battery out of the vehicle, then reinstall a new battery then reverse the procedure to keep the radio/PCM memory alive. No sweat
 
I haven't checked it today...will try to do this week if I'm in mood to do it. I work from Monday thru Friday. I noticed it works normally when the headlights are on when I drove on way home..and there are less cars to worry about behind me when braking hard and didn't show any problems at all.
 
:hmm: Interesting. It sound like it's like my old 1995 Chrystler Grand Caravan Sport 3.0 liter that died when I stopped at intersection. I no longer have van and it had 98,000 miles on it. I traded in old van for brand new 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan Sport. I suspect that there were valve problem or vaccuum (It didn't have much tubes on its engine).

My Dodge Durango dies on me if it rocks hard (drove over deep curb and rough pavement at slow speed) or if I slam the brake to full stop and reverse then tried to shift to drive and it dies on me. I couldn't figure out where the problem was, It have 68,000 miles now.

Do you know what was the problem is?

Catty
 
In case if you are on the road and your car is about dying, you have to prepare to change it to neutral shift so that you would able to brake it. Someone told me about it a long time ago.
 
purplecatty said:
:hmm: Interesting. It sound like it's like my old 1995 Chrystler Grand Caravan Sport 3.0 liter that died when I stopped at intersection. I no longer have van and it had 98,000 miles on it. I traded in old van for brand new 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan Sport. I suspect that there were valve problem or vaccuum (It didn't have much tubes on its engine).

My Dodge Durango dies on me if it rocks hard (drove over deep curb and rough pavement at slow speed) or if I slam the brake to full stop and reverse then tried to shift to drive and it dies on me. I couldn't figure out where the problem was, It have 68,000 miles now.

Do you know what was the problem is?

Catty
Click to expand...

Sound it leak vacuum. I remember when drove my friend's F250 for plow snow first time it would stupper then stall every time I change to reverse. Found pvc valve's hose fell off Intake and it been suck air for long time.
 
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