Brag about your car's miles!

Milwaukee said:
Actually mistake info.

They don't closed for heater there are another port from Thermostat housing so it only let coolant go to heater.

If they don't make another port on it then it correct info.

I have experienced thermostat stuck several times it no fun when you watch temperature climb until I turn on heater full and REV then it went down.

Here picture
84I6WTRNCK.JPG
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Hi, Milwaukee, Same thing happen to my old Chevy truck w/ a 350 V8 that I saw a coolant temp gauge's needle rose and close to the red mark while drove on the heavy traffic freeway. I already removed old thermostat before. I decided to turn a heater on with full hot mode and set high fan speed, noticed a temp gauge's needle dropped to med range. Hot air inside. I discovered a radiator was partial plugged. I got a new radiator and T-stat that fixed the overheated problem.
 
The Highlander said:
Almost!

A/C and cooling system are different. A/C use compressor and you can turn compressor off/on by clutch control. The cooling system use water pump and water pump NEVER will turn off or engine become overheat quick.

This is water pump for cooling system and heater only.
WaterPumpD0OEimpeller.jpg


This is compressor for A/C only.
Denso_A_C_Compressor.jpg


The heater come from cooling system/water pump.

This is thermostat. It closed when engine is cold, when you warm the engine up till 180 F (I think) then thermostat will open. You noticed why heater won't work till engine warm up at winter time. But I never like idea about thermostat, when it stucked closed then engine become overheat and heater do not work.
thermostat.jpg
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Thermostats are important to the engine life and emission. One bottom line is overheat that can be damage to head gasket(s), warpage head(s) or seize
engine when T-stat closed stuck.

You mention, heater do not work? Possible malfunction heater control valve, stick cable or broken lever, plugged heater core or bend heater hose
or cable at the climate control panel is off. The heater control valves are controlled by cable, vacuum line or electrical actucator, Hope you find a problem.
 
deafsmogtech said:
Thermostats are important to the engine life and emission. One bottom line is overheat that can be damage to head gasket(s), warpage head(s) or seize
engine when T-stat closed stuck.

You mention, heater do not work? Possible malfunction heater control valve, stick cable or broken lever, plugged heater core or bend heater hose
or cable at the climate control panel is off. The heater control valves are controlled by cable, vacuum line or electrical actucator, Hope you find a problem.
Click to expand...

Yes, My Subaru's two head gaskets got damage when t-state stuck closed. I found mixed coolant and oil in a oil pan. So should be bad head gaskets and I HOPE NOT IT'S ENGINE BLOCK. I plan to rebuild engine by myself and alldata.com said 40hours. Oh darn.

The heater is work fine when t-state replaced. I don't know about another problem. I don't have HVAC class till next week.
 
The Highlander said:
Yes, My Subaru's two head gaskets got damage when t-state stuck closed. I found mixed coolant and oil in a oil pan. So should be bad head gaskets and I HOPE NOT IT'S ENGINE BLOCK. I plan to rebuild engine by myself and alldata.com said 40hours. Oh darn.

The heater is work fine when t-state replaced. I don't know about another problem. I don't have HVAC class till next week.
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I did replaced head gaskets on a Subaru Legend or Outback I cant remember. Common on deteriorated head gaskets. I like Subaru heads (4 cyl flat engine)
that never got warpages cuz of 2 chamber combustions on the head. I did check the warpages on the head with a machinist' steel rule and found nothing wrong with warpages. No O/H engine necessary, just replace head gaskets. Trust me.
 
The Highlander said:
Yes, My Subaru's two head gaskets got damage when t-state stuck closed. I found mixed coolant and oil in a oil pan. So should be bad head gaskets and I HOPE NOT IT'S ENGINE BLOCK. I plan to rebuild engine by myself and alldata.com said 40hours. Oh darn.

The heater is work fine when t-state replaced. I don't know about another problem. I don't have HVAC class till next week.
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Damn, that sucks dude. :(
 
deafsmogtech said:
I did replaced head gaskets on a Subaru Legend or Outback I cant remember. Common on deteriorated head gaskets. I like Subaru heads (4 cyl flat engine)
that never got warpages cuz of 2 chamber combustions on the head. I did check the warpages on the head with a machinist' steel rule and found nothing wrong with warpages. No O/H engine necessary, just replace head gaskets. Trust me.
Click to expand...

Should I replaced new head gaskets,gasket spark o-ring, gasket water pump, and water pump unit? What kind of tool you use for timing belt?

I can't afford to make ONE TINY mistake for wrong set on timing belt or good bye to valves and piston heads. I did it before for I4 engine but never tired on H4 engine before. My engine is over 130,000 miles.

sequoias said:
Damn, that sucks dude. :(
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Shit happen. Good thing, I can fix it by myself. Don't worry about it.
 
The Highlander said:
Should I replaced new head gaskets,gasket spark o-ring, gasket water pump, and water pump unit? What kind of tool you use for timing belt?

I can't afford to make ONE TINY mistake for wrong set on timing belt or good bye to valves and piston heads. I did it before for I4 engine but never tired on H4 engine before. My engine is over 130,000 miles.



Shit happen. Good thing, I can fix it by myself. Don't worry about it.
Click to expand...

Highlander,
Tools required for T-belt or water pump replacement on a Subaru F4 engine, is you have:
Bench vise 5 or 6" jaws
1/2" drive break bar
Large pry bar
6 point short/deep sockets size 10, 12 14 17 and 22 or 23MM I think I use 22 MM impact socket to loose a crank pulley bolt. I use one 14MM deep socket to loose the head bolts. You can use small extension for short socket
Set of open/box wrenches
For head gasket job:
Air compressor
Engine Hoist
Torque wrench
White marker
Scrapers/ Razor blades
1 can of carb cleaner spray
2 cans of brake cleaner spray
T-belt tools as above.
I DO NOT recommend anybody with no mechanical/safety backgrounds

I ll see u in PM, deafsmogtech
 
My Grand Cherokee has 155,000 miles on it. 4 cars back I had a 88 camry that died at 299,993 miles, so close.
 
My f150 just went 100k miles since I own it in 2007 was 60k miles but just replace a ball joint for both side and new tires too
 
sequoias said:
I bought my car used in 2006 with 39,900 miles on it. I mostly took them to quick lube-oil change stations. Once in a long while, I ask hearing people to listen for noises in my car that I cannot feel at all. Currently, it has 106,100 miles on it and still runs great. I didn't spend very much on the car, I guess I got lucky with a very reliable car and I did lot of servicing myself and took to shops with reasonable prices with a good reputation, too.
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Damn, we have put about 2,000 miles in less than a month! It has passed 108k miles yesterday.
 
sablescort said:
Since people have been posting their car's miles on different threads. This thread is to find out who has the highest-mileage car in AD.

Only rule is the car must have over 75,000 miles (USA and Britain) or 125,000 kilometers (Canada and rest of the world) to be eligible for the highest-mile champ of AD.
.
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Wasn't this thread about posting who has high miles? Like 75,000 miles or 125,000km? I see many posters who have nothing near these figures.... :confused:
 
Glenn said:
Wasn't this thread about posting who has high miles? Like 75,000 miles or 125,000km? I see many posters who have nothing near these figures.... :confused:
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Yes that is right. less than 75k miles or 125k km on the odometer is puny compared to taking your car further than the factory ever thought it could be capable.

remember ONLY over 75,000 miles or 125,000 km qualifies the car for this thread... The 75,000 mile threshold was set cause of the new type of oil that has been formulated for higher mile cars starting at 75,000 miles or 125,000 km.

Anyways on my vehicles...the Isuzu now reads almost 125,000 miles and the ZX2 Escort is on and off the road for weeks at times, but her clock is still at 160,700 miles.
 
sablescort said:
Yes that is right. less than 75k miles or 125k km on the odometer is puny compared to taking your car further than the factory ever thought it could be capable.

remember ONLY over 75,000 miles or 125,000 km qualifies the car for this thread... The 75,000 mile threshold was set cause of the new type of oil that has been formulated for higher mile cars starting at 75,000 miles or 125,000 km.

Anyways on my vehicles...the Isuzu now reads almost 125,000 miles and the ZX2 Escort is on and off the road for weeks at times, but her clock is still at 160,700 miles.
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Then I take it, I am ineligible for the thread?
 
Now currently at 108,200 miles. We won't be taking the car to Minnesota this weekend. We wanted to save the wear and tear and the miles on the car...so instead we're renting a car from my work.
 
sequoias said:
Now currently at 108,200 miles. We won't be taking the car to Minnesota this weekend. We wanted to save the wear and tear and the miles on the car...so instead we're renting a car from my work.
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At least, you get the discount in renting cars, eh
 
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