89 Ford F-150 electrical?

S0rceress0

S0rceress0

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89 Ford F-150 with a 92 engine
Battery is good, lights in the cab and on the dash come on just fine. Doesn't turn over, doesn't even click. Replaced the starter about six to eight months ago.
When I did get it to turn over, I'd be driving at night and the lights would just suddenly turn off. Stepping on the brights button a couple of times could turn them back on. Finally it got difficult to start, and now, it won't turn over anymore.

I've never worked on anything like this before. I can replace spark plugs and diagnose an oil leak, but auto electrical is something I've never really worked with. My electrical training from the Navy is rusty, though I remember the basic concepts.

Any advice?
 
Are the battery clamps tight and clean?

Gotta start with the simple stuff first.
 
Sounds like a bad ground. check the flex braided wire from engine to firewall or the battery. It varies from vehicles to vehicles. Most electrical issues on cars/trucks are from bad grounds. living in the snow country doesnt help either.
 
What size of engine? Same engine size from 92? Carburetor or fuel injection ? Automatic or manual tranny?
 
diehardbiker said:
If I were you, I would go over different forum instead of here. Here is URL Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans I trust that you will find better answer to your issue with your F150 though this forum.

DHB
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The description of the forum is as follows: Talk about cars, both import and domestic; technical Q&A's and modifications; show off your ride!

Since this is a technical question, I brought it here. I have brought the question to four or five forums including a dealers forum on Fords, but some people who have been working on Fords aren't always on one single forum. There could be someone familiar with the year of Ford truck I have or the difficulties with it as similar to their own.

Thank you for the forum suggestion.
 
radioman said:
Sounds like a bad ground. check the flex braided wire from engine to firewall or the battery. It varies from vehicles to vehicles. Most electrical issues on cars/trucks are from bad grounds. living in the snow country doesnt help either.
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I will check this thanks :)
 
S0rceress0 said:
The description of the forum is as follows: Talk about cars, both import and domestic; technical Q&A's and modifications; show off your ride!

Since this is a technical question, I brought it here. I have brought the question to four or five forums including a dealers forum on Fords, but some people who have been working on Fords aren't always on one single forum. There could be someone familiar with the year of Ford truck I have or the difficulties with it as similar to their own.

Thank you for the forum suggestion.
Click to expand...

Yes, True, they are regular posters, know basics. That's all.
 
Sorceresso, I understand you about no crank condition in post #1. My question is.....
Stepping on the brights button is headlight switch or dimmer switch on the floor?
As you mentioned, Driving at the night and the lights would suddenly turn off...... was it stall or die on the road? Is the dash showing " CHECK ENGINE" light on? Did you see a battery charge gauge or light on the dash?
I would go with all the posters what they says. But if the truck dies or stalls on the road, I would go with the charging system first and check battery condition ( when did the new battery installed).
If they are no problem and sound good battery condition, if no crank, then go to check a starter solenoid near battery, have someone to start the engine, listen the solenoid for click. No click sound, bypass big red positive cable at the solenoid and other big red cable on the end of the solenoid, make sure the ignition key off to prevent the fan blade or the vehicle motion. If the engine crank ok by bypass the solenoid then replace starter solenoid but otherwise it can be ignition switch. Dst
 
i forget to add to stating..... the red battery cable from positive end of the battery, route to the starter solenoid and other red cable on the end of the starter solenoid that route to the starter. You can disconnect the wire from S letter on the starter solenoid, use small driverscrew to touch the S terminal and battery side at the solenoid to crank the engine. Hope that help. dst
 
If the engine crank by bypass the starter solenoid mean the starter solenoid is ok, problem is ignition switch or no power from fuse/relay box to the ignition switch for no crank. Try to check fuses. Pardon me I go to work on my hobby project, maybe free time in the night. dst
 
another thought-- how do you know if the battery is good. when not running- you might have enough power to lights in interior- but not for amperage current draw for starter. Check to see if the voltage at battery is close to 11-12 volts with engine off. if you get 10 volts or less, you might have a a bad cell in battery. when stepping on bright light and back- you are forcing alternator to step up and give power needed. If the battery voltage is good then check it running. it should be over 12volts to 14 volts but tends to be 13.2 or so. that tells you the alternator is working fine.

I really suspect a bad ground or bad battery. As for size of engine for electrical issue, come on guys.... :roll:.

The battery and alt check,ground wire is easy and free/low cost to you to do.
 
radioman said:
another thought-- how do you know if the battery is good. when not running- you might have enough power to lights in interior- but not for amperage current draw for starter. Check to see if the voltage at battery is close to 11-12 volts with engine off. if you get 10 volts or less, you might have a a bad cell in battery. when stepping on bright light and back- you are forcing alternator to step up and give power needed. If the battery voltage is good then check it running. it should be over 12volts to 14 volts but tends to be 13.2 or so. that tells you the alternator is working fine.

I really suspect a bad ground or bad battery. As for size of engine for electrical issue, come on guys.... :roll:.

The battery and alt check,ground wire is easy and free/low cost to you to do.
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11-12v in battery (no load) is weak and may recharge or replace it. Good battery should be above 12.5 at cold temperature. On engine cranking, battery voltage should be above 9.5 v (depend on engine size and compression ratio). Good charging system for the newer vehicle should be 13.45 to 14.45 v. If the charging system holds 13.45 or less with full loaded, then suspects high resistance or weak alternator.
With fuel injection, the computer will increase idle speed if the alternator output is low voltage cuz the computer rise the engine speed to overcome the weaked alternator to keep up the battery feed or till the computer will shut down when the battery voltage drops under 9 volts.
 
alternator brushes


4x4Wire - Replacing Alternator Brushes


a simple way to test your alternator is to start your truck then disconnect the positive then negative terminals on your battery. If the truck still runs, the alternator is good. If it dies, replace the alternator.
 
Steinhauer said:
alternator brushes


4x4Wire - Replacing Alternator Brushes


a simple way to test your alternator is to start your truck then disconnect the positive then negative terminals on your battery. If the truck still runs, the alternator is good. If it dies, replace the alternator.
Click to expand...

You mean this alternator test method is used on the electronic fuel injected vehicle? You are silly... the ECM or PCM can be toast and ruin. Because the 12 voltage electrical are flowing(current) into the computer then ground and back to the battery, and good alternator can product 14 volts and send 14 v into the computer with the ground cable DISCONNECTED, what happen? Fry the computer. You cant do that.
BUT this alternator test method is for carburetted vehicles with no computers. You are ok. Understand. Dst
 
First of all, how can your suggestion help? Remember, what they said can't even start engine. It means that it was not even crank a bit at all.

I would forget everything else and focus why can't the starter crank?

Here is simple logical thinking. Battery is good, okay it has to connect to starter and the ignition switch. The ignition switch needs to close the circuit on the starter from the battery. So check the starter solenoid to see if it works or not. To test solenoid, I am not sure how Ford wired and I will find out eventually. Anyway for GM starter, it is easy... just use screwdriver to close the circuit from the ignition switch and the main battery feed and if it is not crank, defective starter solenoid or starter. If it did turn, but the flywheel isn't turning (You can see starter spins freely) then starter is toasted.
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Your suggestion works for cars before 80's without damage. But after that, doing this CAN cause damage to tons of sensitive electronic device in your car. And this is nightmare when doing troubleshootin.

DHB

Steinhauer said:
alternator brushes


4x4Wire - Replacing Alternator Brushes


a simple way to test your alternator is to start your truck then disconnect the positive then negative terminals on your battery. If the truck still runs, the alternator is good. If it dies, replace the alternator.
Click to expand...
 
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