4 wheel drive problems

deafsmogtech said:
T-stat is slipping from 2nd boss and got sandwiched betwwen outlet housing and mating surface such as head or T-stat housing while tighten bolts/nuts. Common problem is on side of the T-stat housings. I broken an outlet housing on GM V8, the 2nd boss is on top of the inatke manifold that easy fix but I made a mistake for not pay attention on T-stat position in the 2nd boss. Sandwiched. On newer GM use rubber O seal gasket to rim the new T-stat and install in the 2nd boss, no gasket used on the outlet housing. Cool design and no more cracked outlets.
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Thats the way it is on the 4.3 chevy now. The gasket fits over the rim of the thermostat. Took me longer to get to stuff off to get to the housing than it did to replace the thermostat itself.
 
ncff07 said:
Thats the way it is on the 4.3 chevy now. The gasket fits over the rim of the thermostat. Took me longer to get to stuff off to get to the housing than it did to replace the thermostat itself.
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yeah, similar to my old Astro van w/a 4.3L , bit little difficult to work on T-stat.
 
The Highlander said:
Ah. You should use a torque wrench. I alway use torque wrench for engines, transmissions, and suspensions to avoid from break gasket and nut/bolt.
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I dont have time to retorque bolts/nuts on the T-stat housing or valve cover or oil pan with a torque wrench. Use you brain to torque bolts/nuts. Common sense on size of the bolts/nuts where you want to tighten without torque wrench but you have to use torque wrench to tighten flywheels, wheels or axle nuts, etc... Many mechanics use impact tools to tighten bolts/nuts, I tell you. I dont need torque wrench to tighten water outlet or pump. Time is money.
 
diehardbiker said:
Overtighten, at that time I wonder why I always have leak with new gasket along with gasket sealant. Now I know, gasket sealant is a no no with new gasket.
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warpaged outlet housing, you can fix it by plane it on the disc sander machine or on sandpaper about 100 or 120 grit on the very flat surface, lap it few strokes then check the mating surface, you will see the low spots, Too much deep spots, replace a new outlet housing. You can seal the mating surface with a grey RTV sealant and install without a gasket, The mating surfaces must be free of grease and clean with brake cleaner spray can.
 
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deafsmogtech said:
I dont have time to retorque bolts/nuts on the T-stat housing or valve cover or oil pan with a torque wrench. Use you brain to torque bolts/nuts. Common sense on size of the bolts/nuts where you want to tighten without torque wrench but you have to use torque wrench to tighten flywheels, wheels or axle nuts, etc... Many mechanics use impact tools to tighten bolts/nuts, I tell you. I dont need torque wrench to tighten water outlet or pump. Time is money.
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Well, the torque wrench is good for learn how to correct tight and memory for future. I heard someone told me that some people got fired from a job for do impact tool to tighten lug without torque wrench.

You right, My instructor told me that almost 95% of mechanics use impact tool without torque wrench for tighten lug and they should not do that.

One mistake then waste time for buy a new part and rebuilt. I am just a messager.
 
The Highlander said:
Well, the torque wrench is good for learn how to correct tight and memory for future. I heard someone told me that some people got fired from a job for do impact tool to tighten lug without torque wrench.

You right, My instructor told me that almost 95% of mechanics use impact tool without torque wrench for tighten lug and they should not do that.

One mistake then waste time for buy a new part and rebuilt. I am just a messager.
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If you land a new job in tire retailers like Goodyear, Firestone or PepBoys, you are required to use torque wrench to tighten lugs where they sold tires or brake/suspenision works. I require to use torque wrench to tighten lugs when I remove any wheels for brake inspection or new tires.
 
Had tires put on an old S-10 truck I used to own, the place used a impact wrench on them. When it came time to put new brake pads on the front I found out they torqued the hell out of them and i broke 1 stud off getting them broke loose.
 
Yeah, this reminds me <chuckle>. I was not sure if I had tighten enough, I tighten them. Drove about 400 miles on highway. I began to feel wobbly. Stopped, check around my van tires. Nothing loosen, so I continued driving for maybe 25 miles then get off highway and got onto Wal-mart store. As soon as I was about to park I noticed a tire got past me. I said to myself, WTF where did it come from?, all sudden I felt dropping closer to the ground. I was like Oy' vey! Glad it happens at just right spot.

That was sometimes 20 years ago.

ncff07 said:
Had tires put on an old S-10 truck I used to own, the place used a impact wrench on them. When it came time to put new brake pads on the front I found out they torqued the hell out of them and i broke 1 stud off getting them broke loose.
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Live and learn. I carry a breaker bar, a torque wrench and different size sockets in my blazer with the factory jack and lug wrench now days.
 
ncff07 said:
Had tires put on an old S-10 truck I used to own, the place used a impact wrench on them. When it came time to put new brake pads on the front I found out they torqued the hell out of them and i broke 1 stud off getting them broke loose.
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also the towing drivers got pissed off the overtorqued lug nuts they couldn't break loose as they change flatten tire for spare tires but they carry long break bar or pipe something what they like to bring. Same as mine and mechanics.
I believe the torque on your S10 lug nuts is 100 foot pound like my Astro.
 
diehardbiker said:
Yeah, this reminds me <chuckle>. I was not sure if I had tighten enough, I tighten them. Drove about 400 miles on highway. I began to feel wobbly. Stopped, check around my van tires. Nothing loosen, so I continued driving for maybe 25 miles then get off highway and got onto Wal-mart store. As soon as I was about to park I noticed a tire got past me. I said to myself, WTF where did it come from?, all sudden I felt dropping closer to the ground. I was like Oy' vey! Glad it happens at just right spot.

That was sometimes 20 years ago.
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whoa
 
deafsmogtech said:
also the towing drivers got pissed off the overtorqued lug nuts they couldn't break loose as they change flatten tire for spare tires but they carry long break bar or pipe something what they like to bring. Same as mine and mechanics.
I believe the torque on your S10 lug nuts is 100 foot pound like my Astro.
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Not just overtorqued lug nuts. It's should happen to rust too.
 
The Highlander said:
Ah. You should use a torque wrench. I alway use torque wrench for engines, transmissions, and suspensions to avoid from break gasket and nut/bolt.
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yup. my motorcycle mechanic uses NASA torque wrench. got it from ebay. used. pretty cool.
 
Just an update for everyone who gave advise


I found someone to look over and fix up my jeep cheap (friend of my mother that I had never met). He decided to take the head off and see what was going on. We took the head to the shop to see if anything was wrong with it and they said it was warped. It is back together now and I have been driving without a problem for about a week and a half now. Cost me 630 bucks to do all that. Hopefully it is fixed now.

I did see inside the head and intake manifold and damn there was a lot of carbon built up in the fuel system. We cleaned it out as best we could and I have been using fuel injection cleaner. It has a lot better pickup now.
 
AndyE9503 said:
Just an update for everyone who gave advise


I found someone to look over and fix up my jeep cheap (friend of my mother that I had never met). He decided to take the head off and see what was going on. We took the head to the shop to see if anything was wrong with it and they said it was warped. It is back together now and I have been driving without a problem for about a week and a half now. Cost me 630 bucks to do all that. Hopefully it is fixed now.

I did see inside the head and intake manifold and damn there was a lot of carbon built up in the fuel system. We cleaned it out as best we could and I have been using fuel injection cleaner. It has a lot better pickup now.
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Warped? Ouch - I'd replace the thing which has been warped instead of repair it because the problems will APPEAR.
 
AndyE9503 said:
Just an update for everyone who gave advise


I found someone to look over and fix up my jeep cheap (friend of my mother that I had never met). He decided to take the head off and see what was going on. We took the head to the shop to see if anything was wrong with it and they said it was warped. It is back together now and I have been driving without a problem for about a week and a half now. Cost me 630 bucks to do all that. Hopefully it is fixed now.

I did see inside the head and intake manifold and damn there was a lot of carbon built up in the fuel system. We cleaned it out as best we could and I have been using fuel injection cleaner. It has a lot better pickup now.
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Wondering why he took a head off? How do he know?? Was the coolant throw up from the radiator neck? Tell me (pm me if you like).
I tell you that I never took any heads off from the 4.0L in-line 6 cylinder blocks of the Jeeps in my mechanic years that these Jeeps were brought to the repair shop for overheated. I diagnosed them then replaced water pumps, hoses, t-stats. radiators/heater cores such as malfunction cooling system. . After repaired, they were running fine but often I see cracked exhaust manifolds. What am I miss one line is I never touch the heads. I often see the broken or spitted intake/exhaust manifold gaskets. I believe you mention the carbon build up is inside the runners of the intake manifolds and intake ports (head). I often see the little carbon build up in chamber combustions in the heads execpt older Jeep heads with carburetors. I did head work on the older Jeeps that emitted gross pollute due to low compression.
Did you know that if you take a cylinder head off from the block that become warped already even this head is not cause blown gasket? That is why I wont buy fault head gasket unless I see the bubbles in the neck of the radiator or use head gasket/ block leak detector. Sometime too much water in cooling system, can eat a metal sandwiched head gasket that can lead to leaking.
 
The Highlander said:
Happen to you before? :shock:

I always drain a coolant and a oil first then take head off.
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I talk about the blown cylinder head gasket. When you diagnose the overheated engine, check oil for sign of water (coolant), you may see the lightly white stream out of the dipstick tube or open oil refill cap hole. If they reveals light brownish or white stream that indicates water leaks into crankcase that causes by the head gasket or intake manifold gasket or cracked head/block. Then next to check the coolant level in neck of the radiator to see if coolant is full or empty. CAUTION NEVER OPEN RADIATOR CAP WHEN HOT ENGINE. Prefer cold engine, topping off the radiator w/ water, leave a radiator cap off then start the engine and runs. Observe the water in the neck, if water throw up too fast that indicates blown cylinder head when the engine is cold.
 
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